This year we've focused on growing leafy greens such as Kale (lacinto), Swiss Chard and Beets. With the Kale and Chard especially, we've probably harvested the tops of each young plant once a week or more since the beginning of May. That equals to over 20 times each plant. The leaves quickly regrow and are ready to be harvested again within a couple days.
Our breakfasts have greatly benefited from this. We've been able to add nearly a gallon-bucket worth of greens to our shakes every morning, in addition to water, hemp protein, maca, cashews, spirulina, raw honey, raw cocoa powder, ice cubes and occasionally Wisconsin ginseng. I can tell you that getting a large amount of fresh greens (and the other goodies) every morning has had a positive impact on our health. Plus, if we would have purchased those greens, we would have easily spent hundreds of dollars. And, the shakes are actually delicious and smooth!
I attribute the ability to harvest the greens so many times to the high-quality compost that we are directly growing them in. Essentially, we're using compost that is from brewer's mash (a good source of nitrogen), wood chips (a good source of carbon) and then various other items such as coffee grounds, vegetable waste, and mowed up leaves. The main thing is that you want about 75 percent of your materials to be a high carbon source and 25 percent to be from a high nitrogen source. Ultimately, a good compost will have a C:N ration of about 25:1 to 30:1.
If you're interested in learning more about composting, building compost bins out of recycled materials, or acquiring quantities of grow-ready compost, let us know how we can help!
In my past garden experiments, I've dealt with rabbits that love to strip small plants of their leaves, racoons that love to eat tomatoes and the occasional hot pepper and chipmunks that have extrasensory knowledge of exactly where I planted my squash seeds.
But this year, at my new location, I'm dealing with a whole new animal -- groundhogs. These pudgy, furry creatures otherwise known as woodchucks have become my new foe. Interestingly, the answer to the tongue twister "how much wood could a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood?", is none. They actually aren't very interested in wood and are more interested in eating my garden and digging an impressive network of tunnels all around my yard.
Secret woodchuck hole in day lily patch
However, one morning I did see a young
groundhog scurry out of the day lily patch behind the garden and climb
right up a tree. Yes, it climbed up a tree. When I asked it what it was
doing it promptly scurried back down the branch and back into the
foliage, where it has a secret tunnel.
What started out as two groundhogs multiplied so we've had the pleasure of watching a whole herd of them grazing the clover in the field next to my yard. If all they ate was the clover, I'd have no problem with them. But they've become very good at shaving my
kale, beets, broccoli, peppers, lettuce down to stubs. And chicken fencing hasn't stopped them. They climb right over.
So my wife and I have taken it upon ourselves to explore various ways of deterring these pesky pests.
Here are some of the solutions we've been working on to keep our gardens safe from our buck-toothed enemies:
Deer fencing
Live traps
Pest deterrent spray
Wrist rocket (Haven't gotten to that point yet)
Some other "methods" that my farmer friends have said work phenomenally but are probably not palatable to most audiences
Deer fencing was attached to our original chicken wire
Another method that seems to have worked with some success is shouting at them and being physically intimidating (that was actually a recommendation on a website I saw). I threw a chunk of soil at one while it was in my garden and it quickly climbed out and started for one of its holes. I threw another rock at it on its way back to its hole.
The rock hit the ground about a foot behind it and scared the thing so much that it literally flipped over on its back and let out a loud squeak.
This woodchuck ate that whole apple in about 30 seconds
For about a week after that encounter there was no sign of them in the garden. Then we noticed some more nibbled plants. So we set up the deer fencing.
That seemed to work fairly well except one morning as I was leaving for work I noticed a groundhog frantically trying to get out of the garden.
It seems it found a way under the deer fencing, but couldn't get out. I lowered the live trap into the garden and stood outside the fence, using a large stick I found to battle it into the trap.
After a prolonged struggle where it lunged at the stick and clicked its teeth together I was able to push it into the live trap without any injuries to it or me.
Unfortunately, it escaped the trap as I accidentally lifted the trap by the wrong handle and it opened the gate.e. But later that day, the trap actually caught one and I let it go at a nearby natural area.
Since then, I've caught four more of them including one large adult. Twice they've gotten themselves into the deer-fenced area where they can't get out on their own, which actually works in my favor. I've released all of them at the same location so hopefully they will re-unite as one big happy buck-toothed family.
Yet there are still at least two more in the yard. One huge adult and a young one. Since they have a network of tunnels, I'm going to put the live trap in various locations to catch the sneaky varmints.
My suggestion is: if you garden and discover that you are sharing your space with groundhogs, get deer fencing and a live trap and get them off of your property before they multiply!
A couple weeks ago, after our bees swarmed, we checked the hive to see how the bees were progressing with making honeycomb and honey. More importantly, we wanted to see if there was any brood, the eggs, larvae and pupae, which would indicate that there was a new queen present after the swarm left with the original queen.
At the time, we removed all of the frames one by one, and saw lots of honey-making activity, but no brood.
This was a concern to us because without brood, there may be no queen. Without a queen, bees will still make honey, but they will not overwinter. That means that we'd have to start with a new colony next spring.
Not a huge deal, but we thought it would be nice to go through the winter and be able to start with our original hive. Plus it would be a good educational experience to see the life-cycle of the bees from start to finish.
When we checked the hive, we also added two new honey supers, the stacked wooden boxes that comprise the area where bees will make honey that we can harvest. We did this to give them more room to do their work and to prevent another swarm. Our hope was that there was in fact a queen and that she just hadn't gotten around to laying eggs yet in the honey-comb cells, and that the worker bees would ascend into the new supers and make honey that we could harvest this summer.
Capped worker brood in the middle
On Sunday, we checked the hive again from top to bottom. The top super had a few bees in it but no new comb. The middle super had a ton of activity in it, new honey and what we thought were brood cells, which are normally capped over with beeswax when they contain worker brood that have developed into mature larvae on their way to becoming pupae. A very good sign!
In the bottom part of the hive, or the hive body, we found even more activity, and more capped brood.
Then I noticed some whitish looking objects in some of the clear honeycomb cells. Looking closely, I saw what was for sure larvae! The larvae are c-shaped in the cells and eat a mixture of royal jelly, nectar and pollen.
It was an amazing to see the brood cells for the first time and to learn a little bit more about bees and their life cycle. We are looking forward to our first honey harvest in hopefully about a month!
It's been an interesting couple weeks of learning from our newest addition to Resilience Urban Farm, Italian honeybees, a subspecies of the western honeybee, Apis mellifera. These bees are a gentle variety, and from what I can tell, they are determined workers who pretty much ignore humans in order to get their work done.
We got our first hive as a kit that came with a hive and its various parts, protective head gear, gloves, a smoker & pellets, an excellent book and some beekeeping tools. Our bees came in a little cage. The queen came in an even smaller cage. I've read that a three pound package like the one we bought can contain between 10,000 and 12,000 bees!
After handling the bee cage and getting them into the hive - literally pouring them in in a stream of clustered honeybees - and then spending a few days observing them, any apprehension my wife and I had about keeping them in our yard dissolved.
Another huge benefit of having the bees is that it has inspired our children. They are learning about the cycles and designs that our Creator has written into nature, the importance of pollinators and why each part of the ecosystem is important.
When we got the bees, my son started checking out books at the library about bees and before long, he was correcting me when I misspoke a fact about the bees. The children have been creating bee-centric art since we got the bees.
And we all spend a lot of time visiting the beehive and observing their behavior.
We put the hive on top of bricks which are then on top of a pallet. This is to keep the hive off of the ground and free from anything blocking its entrance.
In about 5 weeks from getting the hive, we'll add a super, or another level above the foundation that will be inaccessible to the queen but open for the workers to build new honeycombs. From here we'll be able to enjoy the sweetest part of beekeeping - fresh, raw, as-local-as-you-can-get honey.
Recently, I moved 5 1/2 yards of high-quality compost to one of our garden plats with the generous help of Robert Pierce and my wife, Heidi. While it's not very much compost in the grand scheme of things, it's amazing at how much productivity one can get out of good compost. Last year I tripled my previous year's yields in my tiny 10' x 8' front yard garden by building rows of mounded compost instead of planting into the ground.
The great thing about creating garden beds this way is that if you have poor soils in your yard that are difficult to work with, you can start growing high-quality food right away by growing in compost rows, mounds or pots. No more tilling, no more back-breaking shoveling and a lot less weeding.
It's amazing how much life is the compost shown in the pictures in this article. I saw a toad, a centipede, multiple potato beetles, spiders, as well as tiny insect and worm eggs all within that trailer-load of finished compost. When you water it, you can literally see the insects scatter looking for shelter. Of course, there's a whole world of life going on at the microscopic level in a good compost. Not all compost is the same, however. Do not try to plant directly into compost that is finely sifted as it could burn your plants because of a high nitrogen content. The compost I use started with wood chips as the primary carbon source and was specifically designed for this type of application.
I'd like to write about how a person makes such high-quality compost in future posts. In short, the source of the raw material and the proper ratios of Carbon and Nitrogen are the two most important factors to get the right mix of nutrition and structure.
After unloading the compost, we distributed it into two neat, 15-foot rows. Later, we'll add more rows to accommodate more plants. Each row is trapezoidal in shape, about 18 inches tall, three feet wide at the base and 18 inches at the top. This provides a stable and nutrient-rich growing medium for the plants and also ensures very low levels of erosion due to the presence of glomalin.
Glomalin-related soil proteins, along with humic acid, are a significant cmponent of soil organic matter and act to bind mineral particles
together, improving soil quality. (source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glomalin)
Next, we'll put 6 inches of wood chips down between the rows to promote fungal colonization, water retention and to deter weeds. This year, we're growing cool season crops in our compost beds. Since it's late April, we've planted some of these crops already - kale, brocolli, carrots, peas, spinach and onions. These plants offer many benefits for people interested in eating for vitality and the prevention of disease, and make for a very flavorful backyard for anyone looking to localize their food.
Contact us if you are interested in learning how Resilience Urban Farm can make your landscape edible and beautiful.
